Liquid Glass Directions/FAQ/Info

Liquid Glass Deep Pour vs. Superclear Table Top

Liquid Glass Directions:

Step 1: The ideal working temperature is around 77°F. Best results can be obtained at temperatures between 70°F and 85°F, in a clean, dry, dust-free environment. Avoid working in high humidity. We recommend using this product on a leveled and flat work surface.

Step 2: Measure product in accordance with your intended use. Prepare 2 parts Base Resin to 1 part Curing Agent by liquid volume. Pour the Curing Agent first and then the Base Resin into a clean, smooth-sided container large enough to hold all the liquid and allow room for mixing.

Step 3: The material must be mixed thoroughly for at least 6-8 minutes. Be sure to scrape the container sides, bottom, and corners as you mix. Be careful not to whip excessive air into the mixture. If mixing a gallon, use a power mixer set to “hand speed.” For smaller quantities, use stir sticks. Do not mix more than a gallon. Pour into a new, clean container and mix for an additional minute.

Step 4: Pour the mixed resin onto the surface and distribute evenly with a squeegee or gloved hand. Continue to pour remaining material to achieve the desired thickness, allowing the resin to flow evenly over the project’s sides. Resin can be poured up to 2” thick per pour, and up to 4” depending on the volume of the pour.

Step 5: Use a heat source such as a heat gun to remove any bubbles by adding a small amount of heat to the surrounding area. The bubble will rise to the surface and pop.

Step 6: If you are going to make a second pour, the first pour should still be slightly sticky. Once the second pour is made, bubbles may once again need to be removed. Material will feel hard after 48-72 hours, but full cure and maximum hardness can require up to 7 days, depending upon the temperature.

PRO TIPS

  1. If you wish to apply paper decals or other objects under the SuperClear 2.0 surface, those objects need to be bonded to the surface either with SuperClear Epoxy or craft glue. Some wood may take the material well in a single coat; however, many types of wood require a seal coat to prevent air bubbles from rising out of the wood and ruining the surface. Older, more porous pieces of wood may contain both air and moisture that can contaminate the finish. In this case, the user may first paint on a very thin coat of SuperClear Table Top Epoxy, allowing that to set before pouring the new layer.
  2. The larger the pour, meaning the more epoxy volume, the more attention needs to be paid to the overall heat being given off by the epoxy.
  3. Use saw horses or 4×4’s to raise your mold off of a flattened surface. This prevents that flattened surface from adding extra insulation to your mold, therefore keeping heat in when the epoxy needs to be kept at a cool stable temperature. This also allows for airflow underneath your mold, wicking away unwanted heat. This prevents unwanted outcomes like cracks and trapped bubbles.
  4. Use an oscillating fan to help wick away heat from the top and evenly distribute that heat, thus assisting in keeping that epoxy at a stable temperature.
  5. Do not over-clamp your wood substrate to your mold. Doing so will create an immovable object and prevent the substrate from having the necessary ability to slightly shift with the epoxy as it cures. Make sure to only clamp the substrate down to keep it from floating up vertically, but not prohibiting it from shifting horizontally.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

 

Q: What’s the best way to mix Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy?

A: You’ll want to make sure that you have 2 parts base resin and 1 part curing agent measured precisely, by volume. Pour each into your mixing bucket, and we recommend mixing by hand for at least 6 minutes and between 6-10 minutes or until it is fully mixed. Be careful to scrape the sides while mixing, but when pouring, do not scrape the sides. This can impart unmixed material that may cling to the side and has not been incorporated. Don’t worry about any bubbles in the mixture, they will all work themselves out.

Q: How long does Liquid Glass take to cure, and what temperatures can I pour this in?

A: Our optimum environment temperature range is 72° – 84°F in a clean, temperature controlled environment. Our Liquid Glass Deep Pour is a slow curing epoxy and in that temperature range, it will begin to gel in 6-10 hours, and cure rock hard within 72 hours. Temperatures under 70° can and will stop the curing process. Above 85°, it will begin to accelerate curing, leading to cracking, shrinking and other negative results.

Q: Is your epoxy FDA Compliant?

A: The short answer is, yes. Once our epoxy has cured, it becomes safe, per FDA code, 21CFR175.300 which states “Resinous and polymeric coatings may be safely used as the food-contact surface of articles intended for use in producing, manufacturing, packing, processing, preparing, treating, packaging, transporting, or holding food” and can be used as a “functional barrier between the food and the substrate”.

Q: When can I demould?

A: Our optimum environment temperature range is 72° – 84°F in a clean temperature controlled environment. In that temperature range, you can demould at about 48 hours, and its optimal workability will be between 48 – 72 hours. At 30 hours it will sand and plane as easy as wood!

Q: Can I use this on furniture meant for the outdoors?

A: While our epoxy yellow less over a longer period of time vs all other epoxies, in direct outdoor sunlight, any epoxy will yellow much faster. It is left to the discretion of the user, but it should be fine in highly shaded areas that are kept from direct sunlight.

Q: How much mica or pigment can I use?

A: We suggest only using epoxy resin color pigments (like our Supercolor Liquid Pigments), mica pigment powder, alcohol inks and dyes. With that said, 12% is the limit of color that can be added before the curing process is affected. Remember, the higher percent of color you add, the less chance of a perfect cure. If you go too high, your project will not cure. Our limit for Liquid Glass is 12%, which is more than enough to create an opaque finish, but also allows for a smaller percent to achieve a translucent finish.

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